August 17, 2026, 4:39 am | Read time: 7 minutes
Nestled at the foot of the legendary Schneekoppe mountain, the tiny village of Pec pod Sněžkou, known as Petzer in German, in the Czech Giant Mountains, is an absolute paradise for hikers and those seeking relaxation alike. TRAVELBOOK author Robin Hartmann spent several days here and in the surrounding area hiking and reveals where you can enjoy hearty meals, find the best non-alcoholic cocktails, and why the village’s name translates to “oven.”
A beautiful summer day in late June, the sun blazing from an almost cloudless sky, and my heart leaps because I’ve discovered a little paradise once again. Behind me lies a very relaxed hike through the wilderness of the Czech Giant Mountains, and at my feet now appear the first houses of the tiny village of Pec pod Sněžkou behind densely wooded hills. The fresh, spicy mountain air greets me, envelops me, just a few more steps to my accommodation at the “Koula” mountain lodge, and a first exploration of the little fairy-tale village can begin.
Admittedly, it’s more of a modern fairy tale; Pec pod Sněžkou is undoubtedly a very modern small mountain village, tailored not only to hikers like me with a modest budget but also to affluent vacationers from all over Europe. Many glass facades on the restaurants and hotels, expensive wood, and the unique location of the village bring in a good amount of money for the locals all year round. When I ask one of them if an old mountain village is being turned into a kind of amusement park, he just shrugs: “Oh well, tourism has been here for over 150 years.” Because Petzer can boast a true natural trump card.
An Ice-Cold Bath
Probably the main reason so many vacationers come here is the Schneekoppe. At over 1,600 meters, it’s the highest mountain in the Czech Republic, even though half of the summit lies in neighboring Poland. And from Pec pod Sněžkou, you can not only conquer the very walkable rock on foot but also take a spectacular ride on the local cable car. The whole thing takes a good ten minutes, with breathtaking views of the vast land included; then you’re at the top, at the highest point in the country, feeling on top of the world.
As a nature lover, however, I’m first drawn to another place, namely the banks of the mountain river Aupa. This river flows and meanders for nearly 80 kilometers through the Czech Giant Mountains, running through Pec pod Sněžkou like a blue, clear ribbon. Many other guests have already made themselves comfortable on its shady banks, many with children and dogs. A dip in the Aupa promises a wonderful refreshment, especially on hot days, due to the icy coldness of the water. Some brave souls jump from the wooden bridge over the river, but I prefer to glide gently in and float for a few glorious minutes in the water like a contented carp.
“Oven Under the Schneekoppe”
As soon as the sun has dried me, I jump in again, and this goes on for a carefree hour until I get hungry. When it comes to cuisine, Pec pod Sněžkou truly offers a rich selection, and I choose the excellent “Útulna,” according to a friend, the best-rated restaurant in town. With the great view of the steep green hills surrounding the village, the homemade meatloaf tastes even better. Afterward, a strong iced coffee, and I’m ready for the next adventure, the summit assault on the Schneekoppe.
But first, a little excursion into the history of Pec pod Sněžkou. One question in particular occupies me: Why is the place, literally translated, called “Oven under the Schneekoppe”? Well, the term Pec, meaning “oven,” comes from the hamlet’s history as a mining village. According to the official website of the village, its history begins with the first mention in 1511, then still under the name “Riesengrund.” Until 1959, ores were extracted here and smelted in numerous ovens. Today’s Pec pod Sněžkou only emerged at the end of the 16th century as a place of residence for lumberjacks who came to the Czech Republic from as far as Styria, Carinthia, and Tyrol.
Incredible Crowds
Overall, the history of the settlement of the Giant Mountains is one of immigrants. This was already the case in the 16th century, when numerous settlers from Germany came to this part of the country. Painters like Caspar David Friedrich then introduced the mountain world to a broader audience through their works, and so tourism eventually came. And it must be said, tourism is particularly strong in Pec pod Sněžkou. Outdoor supply stores line up here with shops selling souvenir trinkets. For guests who prefer to stay in the valley, there is a summer toboggan run.
But as I said, I’m now heading to the summit, with a short detour to the Pecký Brewery. This is located almost directly next to the cable car’s valley station and is known for its Sněžka beer, dedicated to the Schneekoppe. I only drink non-alcoholic, but I’m told it’s very good. So now the ascent to the highest point in the country, the summit. I had already climbed it on foot in 2024, and unfortunately, not only in good memory. But that wasn’t due to the mountain itself, but to the absolutely incredible crowds that gathered there. I don’t want to exaggerate, but it may well have been 5,000 people.
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Elegant Ambiance
I’m all the more relieved when I find the cable car station almost deserted. This is not only due to the rather hefty prices of about 28 euros for a round trip, but today more because of the relentless heat. The thermometer shows 38 degrees, and luckily not many other nature lovers have realized that it’s much more pleasant, because cooler, up there. A fresh wind blows around my nose as I enjoy the truly unique panoramic view from the Schneekoppe over the vast land to the horizon. A quick look into the wooden chapel located on the summit, and an obligatory walk across the Polish border. Peace of mind.
Even on the descent, I enjoy the great views of the deep forests and green hills, then I’m back on the ground, back in Pec pod Sněžkou. And I feel hungry again, wanting to treat myself to something special to celebrate the day. So I’m drawn to the chic ambiance of the “Pecr Deep” restaurant, where they impress with a lot of wood and glass. On the terrace, it’s very cozy in warm weather; of course, this pleasure is a bit more expensive than other local places. The menu is in English; it’s a clearly foreign currency-oriented establishment. The cuisine is good, but not so sensational that I would remember what I ordered.
World-Class Bartender
For those looking for evening entertainment, Pec pod Sněžkou offers a small but fine selection. There’s a bowling center and a kind of large disco called “Klondike,” where I was the only guest during my visit. Unlike in the “Sky Bar 18” of the “Horizont Hotel.” Located on its 18th floor, this elegant cocktail bar not only offers a great view but also a bartender of true world-class. František, his name, mixed me numerous non-alcoholic cocktails throughout the evening that simply left me speechless. In fact, he was so good that a friend of mine tried to recruit František on the spot for his own restaurant in Denmark.
An incredibly large, round full moon hangs in the sky, the coniferous forests bathed in shadowy black. I savor the last drops of my fourth cocktail, then take the elevator back down. A final stroll along the Aupa River at night. Tomorrow, a taxi will take me back to civilization. What I feel is gratitude and curiosity. Grateful for having the luck to discover such a magically beautiful place once again. And curious to hopefully return soon to discover even more beauty in Pec pod Sněžkou.