August 9, 2026, 5:58 am | Read time: 6 minutes

When you look at the metropolises in Europe that have been groaning under too many tourists for years, the Czech capital Prague is likely at the forefront. According to the country’s official tourism website, eight million people visited the beautiful city on the Vltava River in 2025, which has a population of just about 1.4 million. I myself have probably been to no other city on our continent as often as Prague, and accordingly, I probably wouldn’t have visited it again in the coming years. So I was all the more frustrated when a regularly scheduled meeting with an international group of friends was supposed to start there. But then I experienced a big surprise.

Spoiler alert: I experienced the city, where I supposedly knew every corner, from a completely different, more exciting side than I ever thought possible. And I completely fell in love again with its charm, which has always attracted visitors from all over the world. What I got to know during my three days was a sometimes quieter Prague than I had known before. A metropolis of international standing with famous sights, where I found room to breathe and rediscover despite the crowds. A city whose almost magical allure captivated me with its centuries-old walls, but also with new places.

Cool Outer District

The adventure began in the Prague district of Žižkov, characterized by student life, which can be reached on foot from the city’s main train station in less than 20 minutes. Old, shabby-cool buildings, countless key boxes with number codes on the entrance doors, indicating a lively rental of vacation apartments. In the summer heat of almost 40 degrees, all windows were open, while the streets were empty, and a lazy early evening mood had taken over the district. Graffiti on the walls, the numerous bars were already preparing for the night guests. Here, nothing, absolutely nothing, hinted at the monumental Prague you find in the capital’s old town.

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This is exactly where I headed on foot after quickly dropping my things in an apartment that one of my friends had rented for us, five guys. And which must undoubtedly have been a crime scene several times in the past, it was so creepy. But only about 100 euros for two nights and five people, who would complain at today’s prices? In the golden evening sun, now a bit cooler, I set off for Prague’s old town, a walk of about 40 minutes. And already on the way, something whispered to me that this could be a chance to rediscover the city all over again.

Places Without Tourists

And that’s exactly what I did, through the eyes of my enthusiastic Portuguese friend, who hadn’t been here for more than 20 years. Of course, we first checked off the things you simply have to do in Prague. So we strolled first over the truly majestic Charles Bridge, a monument, there’s no other way to put it. The views from here of the castle hill, the river, and the rest of the city are simply breathtaking. Then we headed to the world-famous clock tower at the town hall, where figures appear to music every hour on the hour, enchanting true masses of visitors each time anew.

Along the way, we marveled at how much the old town had changed in our eyes. It seemed like every store now sold either ice cream, marijuana, or the legendary chimney cake Trdelnik. Our first stop was the “Café Husovka,” where a courtyard miraculously absorbed almost all the noise from the bustling street. A cheap Czech beer, non-alcoholic for me, and we continued through the streets, just discovering anew, letting ourselves drift. Here or there an iced coffee or, very trendy, an ice matcha latte. Soon it was time for dinner in a nameless restaurant, whose menu was only in Czech. Other tourists? None.

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New Perspectives

The next morning, a longer ride on one of the charming old trams that run through the streets of Prague. A steep climb on foot to the castle hill, where my friend was eager to visit the church there. However, it’s only available as part of a package price for the entire complex, which, at the equivalent of 19 euros, was a bit too expensive for our understanding. Instead, we were drawn to the extensive gardens of Prague Castle, where we were almost alone again. The descent into the old town then opened up new perspectives of the city, as I had never seen them before. And yes, there’s no other way to say it, Prague is simply beautiful.

Later in the afternoon, our other three friends completed our quintet, and from then on, we practically stayed away from the old town. The other guys also wanted to rediscover Prague, for example, in the very delicious and affordable restaurant “U Mariánského obrazu,” again in our “home district” Žižkov. There, you can find typical Czech cuisine in a venerable setting. The place has been around for over 100 years, so they must be doing something right. Much newer is the trendy craft beer brewery “Dva Kohouti” within walking distance. Here, fresh creations are served to deafening techno beats.

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An Important Lesson

However, I most enjoyed a stay on one of the two islands in the Vltava River called Střelecký ostrov. From here, you have a great view of the Charles Bridge and the Prague old town. And you can even cool off with a small swim in the Vltava in hot weather. It was surprisingly empty here too, making the summer iced coffee taste even better. On the neighboring island, Slovanský ostrov, pedal boats can be rented. With them, countless people cruise the river, especially in the evening hours. Despite the unique location, the two islands are comparatively very quiet.

It was this fresh breeze of discoveries that rekindled my love for Prague. The excitement of finding so much new in a city I thought I knew so well. An experience that also taught me an important lesson overall. Namely, to always look at a place with open eyes and an open heart. No matter how many times you may have been there. It is the personal perspective and attitude that have the power to change everything. And who knows, maybe I’ll try the whole thing soon in my hometown of Berlin. They say it’s quite exciting too. At least that’s what you always hear from tourists and newcomers.