July 22, 2025, 3:06 pm | Read time: 6 minutes

“Why would you go there? Only retirees go there!” – that’s how a friend reacted when I mentioned I was heading to Saxon Switzerland. Indeed, I saw an entire senior home being bused to the Bastei rock formation. There, they have a beer, eat a Thuringian sausage or a Soljanka, snap a quick photo, and head back home. But such travelers make up only a small part of the visitors here. Those who enjoy sports are in the right place in the wild East. I’ve set my sights on the Painter’s Path: many kilometers of well-marked hiking trails offer challenging trekking. Surefootedness and good fitness are required. Let’s go, the backpack is packed, the hiking boots are laced!

Panoramic Views and Sights

Of course, planning the route is essential beforehand. How many daily stages will there be, and where can you find accommodations? The website of the Saxon Tourism Association is surprisingly well done and very helpful. It suggests completing the path in eight days. Nonsense, I’m fit, I can do it in five or six days – I think to myself. But on the first day, I realize this stressful approach is wrong. For one, there are plenty of elevation changes to tackle – and for another, the wonderful panoramic views that constantly present themselves slow me down. Stop, look, photograph, breathe, and don’t rush through the kilometers! There are also some sections with ladders, stairs, and narrow passages. It’s fun but slows the pace. And then there are the sights along the way. Here a waterfall, there a castle, take it easy, fellow hikers.

The first decision for me was whether to hike from accommodation to accommodation or from a single location. I chose an apartment in Bad Schandau. With the so-called Guest Card-Mobil or the Germany Ticket, the buses of the Upper Elbe Transport Association are free and run punctually and regularly. So, just fill out a registration form once, shoulder a light daypack, and pack a suitcase only once. Pirna, Rathen, or Königstein are centrally located and also suitable. This way, I have only one location, and I miss out on some idyllic, secluded forest inns. A pity.

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The Painter’s Path in (Almost) All Stages

Shamefully, I must admit that I cherry-picked – and didn’t walk the entire path, only stages 2 to 7. But they were simply enchanting, and I’ve vowed to complete the rest. Here are my little (secret) tips for the individual routes.

Stage 2: Wehlen to Hohnstein

You start right away with the highlight, the Bastei viewpoint. The view from there into the Elbe Valley is simply breathtaking. Sure, everyone does that. I recommend the detour to the Pavilion Viewpoint, where it’s quieter, and you also get a stunning panorama. In Rathen, you should head to the Hübner Bakery and enjoy the Eierschecke by the river with a view of the Saxon Steamship Company. The fish at the Leuschke Trout Smokehouse is super delicious. Don’t miss the lard bread at the Rathewalder Mill! Then plan some time at Hockstein, as the viewpoint at Hohnstein Castle is wonderful. You must also visit the castle and learn about the partly tragic stories there.

Stage 3: Hohnstein to Altendorf

A detour to the small Gautsch Grotto follows. Taking your time for the view from the Brand Massif is worth it, as it offers the best view of the magical Lilienstein Table Mountain. The organic goat cheese at the Brand-Baude is also a highlight. It’s worth taking the 800 steps down into the Tiefen Grund slowly. A relaxing break awaits in the beer garden of the Waitzdorfer Schänke.

Stage 4: Altendorf to Neumannmühle

Starting early is the order of the day, as today’s route covers more than 18 kilometers on the Painter’s Path. In the Kirnitzsch Valley, take a moment to observe kingfishers with binoculars. You should deviate from the route and explore the secluded Flößersteig. And definitely climb the Schrammstein Viewpoint, which offers the best view in the entire Elbe Sandstone Mountains! Taking the Wildschützensteig is worth it, but beware: steel stairs and steep sections make the hike challenging here. You must be free from vertigo.

Then it’s off to the Lichtenhainer Waterfall: At first glance, it’s disappointing, but every half hour, a large surge of water is released with thundering music from “Also sprach Zarathustra.” The rock cave Kuhstall at Neuen Wildenstein is also impressive.

Stage 5: Neumannmühle to Schmilka

It’s important to soak up the solitude here, as we’re close to the Czech border and few hikers are around. There’s hardly any gastronomy, so be sure to think of drinking water to climb the summit of the Großer Winterberg at 556 meters. You must not miss the destination Schmilka – especially the beer garden Alte Schule is worth it. In Schmilka, you can also take the hiking ship on the Elbe and enjoy the panorama of the Schrammsteine from the river.

Stage 6: Schmilka to Gohrisch

The Baroque Church in Reinhardtsdorf is a must-see on this stage. The Papststein impresses with its breathtaking panoramic view. You must try the lentil stew at the mountain inn there!

Stage 7: Gohrisch to Weißig

The Pfaffenstein Table Mountain has steep and narrow iron stairs, so be careful again. Be sure to plan enough time for the Königstein Fortress – at least two hours. You might also take off your hiking boots in Königstein and rent a canoe to paddle on the Elbe to Pirna. There, you can conveniently hop back on the S-Bahn.

One of Europe’s Most Beautiful Landscapes

Yes, I was lazy and skipped the final stage. So, it wasn’t the entire Painter’s Path. The wonderful region in eastern Saxony is to blame, offering so much that I was often distracted from this famous, award-winning path. There’s just too much to discover here. Bad Schandau with a cute park, a historic elevator from 1904, and a great spa. The Rathen Open-Air Stage with a diverse program. The old paddle steamers on the Elbe. And so on.

You can hike wonderfully here and relax beautifully. I’ll be back and bring my friend, who will quickly shed his prejudices. The Saxon tourism managers advertise with “The multi-day hiking tour through one of Europe’s most beautiful landscapes.” And they’re right!