May 11, 2026, 11:45 am | Read time: 5 minutes
White chalk cliffs so picturesque they inspired Claude Monet. The cliffs of Étretat in Normandy, France, are a popular tourist destination. But is a visit really worth it? TRAVELBOOK editor Katharina Regenthal was on site and knows if the cliffs are truly as stunningly beautiful as they say.
During a mini-cruise on the North Sea (I’ve already reported on it in detail), we also made a stop in Le Havre. The port of the largest city in Normandy is frequently visited by cruise ships. From there, they offer their passengers excursions to Paris. However, I headed to Étretat. The small community is located directly on the 140-kilometer-long Alabaster Coast, named for its chalk-white cliffs. After about a 45-minute drive, I was standing right on the promenade of Étretat–and was simply impressed.
From Above or Below–the View is Phenomenal
I must say, I was incredibly lucky with the weather. Blue skies, bright sunshine, a bit of wind. What more could you want?! Since time on site was limited, I decided to take the direct path up to the cliffs. Even from the promenade, you have a great view of the pebble beach and the cliffs on either side. To my left, I could see Porte d’Aval. It was hollowed out by the waves crashing against the end of the cliff. On the other side is the Amont cliff, which is said to resemble an elephant. The trunk dips into the sea, with the head and ears formed by gentle curves.
You see, even if you don’t make the effort to walk up to the cliffs, you have an impressive view. But of course, I wanted to go higher to see the natural phenomenon from above.
First, you go up a few steps. Then follows a rather steep path, which is easy to manage. Once at the top, you are rewarded with a magnificent view. The small community of Étretat lies at your feet, and you can see the entire stretch of beach from above.
Picturesque Landscape as Far as the Eye Can See
Despite the good weather and a Sunday, the crowds were manageable. Sure, it wasn’t empty. But I didn’t have to “queue” to catch a glimpse of the cliffs. What surprised me, however, when I reached the top: There’s a huge golf course there. So if you want to golf with a spectacular view, this is the place for you.
As mentioned, you don’t have to make the climb–but it’s worth it. From above, you can see the so-called Needle, l’Aiguille. It’s a rock about 51 meters high that juts out of the water right at Porte d’Aval.
The Needle and the rock arch have inspired numerous painters and writers. Claude Monet, for example, painted many variations of these rock formations.
One bay over is the monumental La Manneporte. It is the largest rock arch on the entire Alabaster Coast.
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Restaurants, Cafés and Heavenly Croissants
Étretat itself is a small, charming place and it’s definitely worth a stroll. Right by the water, there are a few snack options. At one, I tried oysters for the first time in my life. I’m still a bit undecided about how I felt about them–but the rest of the group rated them as very good, fresh, and extremely affordable.
In the town itself, there’s a small but fine selection of restaurants and cafés and a few nice shops. Since I didn’t have much time, I only managed a quick stop at a patisserie. Because when I’m in France, I simply have to eat a croissant. And I was not disappointed–it was exquisite.
What I couldn’t visit due to time constraints were the Gardens of Étretat. They are located on the side of the Amont cliff. The garden consists of abstract plant sculptures and offers a spectacular view of the coast.
And there’s one more thing on my to-do list for Étretat: Le Clos Arsène Lupin. The museum is located in the former villa of French writer Maurice Leblanc. It houses, among other things, clothing and other items of the fictional novel hero Arsène Lupin. The museum presents the deeds of the master thief in the form of a scenic tour.
My Conclusion
For me, the visit to the cliffs of Étretat was definitely worth it. The cliffs are impressive–from above and below. However, it’s important to know that you should not arrive by car–or at least only with a shuttle or taxi that drops you off there. Parking is really limited. And as beautiful as it was, a longer day trip is enough. If you want to stay longer, I wouldn’t recommend more than one or two nights at most. However, Étretat is the perfect starting point for excursions along the coast–such as hiking or cycling.
The trip was supported by “MSC Cruises.” Our standards of transparency and journalistic independence can be found at www.axelspringer.de/unabhaengigkeit.