July 27, 2026, 3:23 pm | Read time: 7 minutes
The Podlaskie Voivodeship in our neighboring country Poland is characterized in many places by chains of lakes and deep forests. Yet, the perhaps most beautiful region, Suwalszczyzna, remains largely unknown even to local tourists. TRAVELBOOK author Robin Hartmann has discovered this natural treasure for you and reveals where you can swim most peacefully, how to experience the numerous bodies of water in a unique way, and where you can meet one of Poland’s most famous women.
For my Polish-born girlfriend, her parents, and me, our dream trip began in their hometown of Warsaw. As soon as we left the highway after about two hours, the charming landscape quickly captivated us. Dreamy villages passed by, with nothing but vast, golden-yellow grain fields in between. Occasionally, a lake shimmered briefly, like a promise of what was to come. Storks strolled lazily over fields where chugging tractors harvested the grain, the two great timekeepers of a carefree summer in the countryside. And eventually, near the tiny village of Strękowizna, the road simply ended, and we plunged into a deep forest like something out of a fairy tale.
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After a few kilometers of pothole-ridden road, we were greeted by a sight that made our hearts beat faster. Three small bungalows in the middle of nowhere in the wooded solitude, with the occasional mooing of grazing cows in a field, otherwise complete silence over the evening land. Our first explorations yielded a rich harvest of forest fruits, from raspberries to strawberries and blueberries to mushrooms. A small pond in front of our accommodation, where carp splashed. A fire pit where we grilled sausages in the evening and gazed into the infinity of the clear night sky.
The first trip back to “civilization” took us to the cozy log house “Bar Abro,” where you can eat excellently at comparatively low prices. For me, on a vacation near lakes, it’s clear from the start that there must always be fish, but here there’s something for every taste. From personal experience, I can recommend the tench in cream sauce–a delicious fish I’ve only ever eaten in Poland; I’ve never seen it on German menus. Within three days, we visited “Bar Abro” three times, and you can also enjoy a relaxed coffee time here.
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Silence as a Luxury
Each of our days began with a short walk to our neighbor, farmer Piotrek, who sold us fresh eggs. Nearby, at the small Blizna station, a train rattled by about every hour, a connection from this no man’s land to the outside world. In just four hours, including a transfer, you could be in Warsaw from here. Yet, the Suwalszczyzna region feels so remote in the best sense that you might as well be on the moon. And what could be more beautiful here than a long day of swimming at one of the lakes that stretch through the area like a string of pearls? Our search led us back into the forest, to the large Rospuda Lake on the outskirts of Augustów, a lovely spa town.
The water is wonderfully cool despite the high summer temperatures. Only the screech of an osprey could be heard; otherwise, there was absolute silence here too. This silence, which allows for deeper introspection, may also be the true luxury of this natural paradise on the edge of Poland. Here, the soul comes completely to rest, and disturbing thoughts fly by like the few clouds in the summer sky. It’s especially nice to swim at Rospuda Lake right by the campsite in the forest, although a small fee may sometimes be required.
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If you prefer a bit more activity, you can visit the beautiful small town of Augustów. On warm days, life pulses on the streets, in the many restaurants, bars, and cafes. Accordingly, a brochure confidently lists 32 places as attractions, some of which would probably only be considered such here. The best place to stroll in Augustów is by the water. Thanks to its location on a chain of lakes, the town is a little insider tip. At every turn, you’ll find offers for dining and, in between, an ice cream or a waffle. There’s little that Poles love more than summer and waffles.
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Also worth seeing in the town are the basilica and the market square, where a house stands in which Napoleon himself once stayed in 1812. Refreshments can be found either at the “Rico Lody” ice cream parlor or the “Kawiarka” cafe. And then you have the chance to meet one of the country’s most famous women in Augustów. Every day, she sits on a bench in front of the “Albatros” restaurant, waiting for fans and admirers. This is the fictional character Beata. She became famous in 1965 through the rock song “Beata z Albatrosa” by Janusz Laskowski. She is so well-known in Poland that a bronze statue of her was unveiled in front of the legendary restaurant in 2017.
Discovery from the Water
If you want to explore the lake world of Suwalszczyzna from the water, you have the opportunity with one of the numerous daily boat trips. These last from an hour to a whole day and lead over the waters and sometimes also the numerous locks of the over 100-kilometer-long Augustów Canal. A waterway that is on the application list for UNESCO World Heritage status. You can really discover the lakes surrounded by dense forest on the sun deck with the wind in your face. Meanwhile, the captain, unfortunately only in Polish, shares interesting facts about the region. It can get lively at the city beaches of Augustów. It’s especially lively at the pier, which is the second longest in all of Poland. Another superlative that would probably only be advertised here.
Real estate projects like “Villa Park,” advertised with grandiose posters, indicate that Augustów may not remain so tranquil for much longer. Already, fully glazed hotel fronts and luxury condominiums with lake views stand on the shores of Lake Necko. And yet, you can still find small retreats near the city. Like the beach of Lake Sajno, located in the middle of the forest. During our stay, we shared it with perhaps just ten people. And on the walk from the parking lot, we filled our bellies with wild raspberries again.
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You can dine really well and in a refined atmosphere in Augustów at “Nowa Szekla” right at the city’s marina. Of course, it’s a bit more expensive. But you sit excellently and feast even better. Here, I can wholeheartedly recommend the beef tartare and the perch. It’s a bit quirky, given the elegant setting, that several bouncy castles for children are located right next to the restaurant’s tables. In high season, it can get quite loud here. This is probably one of the very few places in Suwalszczyzna where you might have to share your peace for a few moments. But don’t worry, you’ll surely find it again nearby soon.