June 11, 2025, 9:27 am | Read time: 7 minutes
In few places in the Harz Mountains does nature appear as wild and untouched as in the Oker Valley. Hikers and nature enthusiasts will find not only challenging trails and plenty of solitude but also numerous historically significant and sometimes quirky sites. However, caution is advised—a tour here promises not only relaxation but can sometimes become quite dangerous. TRAVELBOOK author Robin Hartmann spent several days in the area and reveals what there is to see.
The sun is shining brightly in the sky, it’s spring-like warm, and my hiking boots have just brought me to one of the most beautiful places in the Harz. Around me, the steep rock walls of the Okertal rise hundreds of meters into the sky. Formations, like those known from Saxon Switzerland, adorn the wooded slopes like castle battlements, promising a spectacular view after a strenuous climb. In the blue sky, true cloud mountains, as large as continents, hang heavily over the valley like freshly fluffed down comforters. And I, a witness to all this splendor, sit in the middle of a rushing riverbed.
Overview
Not directly in the water, fortunately, because the Oker is still quite a raging mountain river at this point. My resting place bears the lovely name Engagement Island, a rocky islet in the river with picnic benches and a panoramic view. Curiosity led me here, as I’ve already explored much of the Harz over the years–but the Okertal was always a great unknown to me. This is because I usually hike in the eastern Harz, but the original natural gem is located in the west, near the city of Goslar. My introduction here couldn’t have been more beautiful.
Danger from Flooding
I dip my feet into the ice-cold water of the Oker, fill my water bottle, and watch other hikers. They wade, some barefoot, through the numerous streams of the river. And they are probably unaware that this seemingly romantic place can be life-threatening. This is because the mighty Oker Reservoir is nearby, from which water is regularly released for power generation. When this happens, the water level in the river can rise dramatically within seconds, becoming a potentially deadly hazard. Signs everywhere warn that wading or even swimming in the river is prohibited for one’s own safety.
Following a narrow forest path slightly above the river, I am drawn to one of the most bizarre places in the Okertal. The self-proclaimed Kingdom of Romkerhall, which is actually little more than a guesthouse built in 1863. However, it not only has an “official” regent but even its own currency, the Königsthaler, and indeed traces back to a real royal. Namely, the former British King George V, who was married to a German princess. Despite being almost blind, he used the area around Romkerhall as a hunting ground in the 1860s. Later, he placed the area under the Crown of Hanover and declared it exempt from municipal jurisdiction. Since this status persists to this day, a clever marketing idea was eventually devised on-site.
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The “Smallest Kingdom in the World”
In 1988, Romkerhall in the Okertal declared itself the “Smallest Kingdom in the World.” And anyone who enters the hotel guesthouse encounters almost overwhelming opulence at every turn. Together with the nearby Engagement Island, the place is now a popular wedding location. On request, you can even be chauffeured to the registry office in the state limousine, a genuine Rolls-Royce. Banquets and public receptions, where you can be knighted, are also popular. If you want to know more about the place, you can also visit the official website. Today a guesthouse and hotel, the building, impressive from the outside, was once the hunting lodge of King George V.
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And another nearby attraction is also thanks to him, namely the highest waterfall in the entire Harz. The cascade, fed by the mountain stream Kleine Romke, was artificially created by the royal in 1862. Since then, it has plunged 64 meters down a steep slope and is also popular with ice climbers in winter. In general, thrill-seekers come to the archaic rock formations of the Okertal, which began forming 350 million years ago, at any time of year. Those who don’t shy away from a steep climb from the “Kingdom of Romkerhall” can hike several of them. From both the Feigenbaumklippe and the Treppenstein, you have an incredible view of the wide, much flatter surrounding area. Once on the high plateau, several of these rocks are easily accessible on a circular hike.
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The Harz Atlantis
Following the river’s course, it’s not far from here to the Okertal Reservoir, one of the most powerful reservoirs in the entire Harz. It can hold up to 47.4 million cubic meters of water, has a dam height of up to 67 meters, and a length of 250 meters. According to the “Harzwasserwerke,” it generates 12.5 million kilowatt-hours of electricity annually. The lake created by the construction from 1956 to 1957 is so large that excursion ships even operate on it. On its shores lies Schulenberg, a place with a dark past. This is the “new” Schulenberg, as the old village sank into the waters after the completion of the Okertal Reservoir and is now a popular area for divers. When the water level in the reservoir drops, remnants of the Harz Atlantis occasionally resurface.
The Oker eventually leads hikers to Altenau, one of the most beautiful places in the western Harz. Unlike other areas, where entire regions appear deserted, Altenau is almost like a small boomtown, having gained a certain status with offerings tailored to modern tourism. This is partly due to the Kristall-Therme “Heißer Brocken,” where you can bathe in several pools with warm, healing brine water. The various saunas complement the offerings, allowing you to spend a few relaxing hours or even a whole day here. I, for one, wished I had booked a longer stay.
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On warm days, a forest swimming pool also awaits visitors. Those who want to be active can try their hand at the disc golf course. Not least, Altenau at the foothills of the Okertal also offers a true superlative, as it is home to the largest botanical garden for herbs in the world. You can enjoy a good meal at the snack bar Zur Rast or the Italian-inspired Hotel-Restaurant Parkhaus with a view of a beautiful fountain. Altenau is also rich in history, as the poet Goethe began his first ascent of the Brocken, the highest mountain in the Harz at 1,142 meters, from here in 1777.
Accordingly, a hiking trail named after Goethe leads to the next natural highlight, the nearby Harz National Park. The Harzer Hexen-Stieg, probably the most spectacular long-distance hiking trail in the region, also passes through Altenau. On the nearby Wolfswarte, you can enjoy one of the most impressive views of the area at an elevation of 918 meters. This is a so-called Bruchberg, which partly resembles a huge scree slope. And as the view sweeps across the landscape, all the experiences in the Okertal and its immediate surroundings come back to mind. One thing is already clear: it’s only a temporary farewell.