December 1, 2023, 1:20 pm | Read time: 4 minutes
Most people traveling to Greece seek relaxation–usually with good weather and near the beach. For those who want more, the Chalkidiki Peninsula offers a unique place for slowing down: the monastic republic of Athos. However, not everyone is allowed in, and women are generally not permitted entry.
At first glance, Ouranoupoli looks like a typical Greek seaside resort. But in the souvenir shops, groups of men in black robes, many with long beards, can be seen. Ouranoupoli is the border town and ferry port to the monasteries of the monastic republic of Athos.
For hundreds of years, Orthodox monks have lived there under strict rules. Women are generally prohibited from entering. Followers of other religions were also long barred from entry. Now, up to ten foreigners receive an entry permit, the so-called Diamonitrion, each day. This document must be applied for in advance and picked up at the pilgrimage office in Ouranoupoli.
Mount Athos towers over everything
Those not deterred by this (and who are men) are rewarded on the roughly two-hour boat passage with views of the rugged coast of the peninsula and the monasteries, which resemble mighty castles with watchtowers and are protected by high walls. The scene is dominated by the more than 2,000-meter-high holy Mount Athos, which towers over the monastic republic and gives it its name.
Also interesting: 10 undiscovered dream islands in Greece
Visitors sleep for free in the monasteries
All monasteries are obliged to offer hospitality and accommodate pilgrims and curious guests for up to three nights free of charge. After that, one must leave the semi-autonomous republic. One of the few foreign visitors who regularly takes a conscious break from a typical beach vacation to visit the holy mountain is Sven Schramm from Berlin. He has been coming here for more than 10 years. “Each monastery is different, and each monk has a unique presence.”
At the Monastery of Dionysiou on the west coast, the few visitors are assigned their small, sparse room upon arrival. Then, everyone is left to themselves. The only fixed appointment is a communal service with the monks. During the subsequent dinner, no one speaks, and a monk reads religious texts. Those who wish can then view the monastery’s holy relics with the abbot. In small boxes, one can supposedly see the hand bones of John the Baptist and a piece of wood said to be from the cross on which Jesus Christ was crucified.
Also interesting: With recipe! How to make tzatziki–with garlic but without the smell
At 4 a.m., the monk calls for morning prayer
The highlight of an Athos visit comes somewhat unexpectedly for inexperienced tourists. At 4 a.m., a monk walks through the monastery complex with wooden sticks, rhythmically knocking to call for morning prayer. In the dark crypt, the monks sing religious verses, and incense fills the air. When the worshippers step outside, they are greeted by the sunrise. Shortly after, the ship arrives to take the monastery visitors back to the hustle and bustle of the seaside resort of Ouranoupoli. A pity, really.
Travel information for Athos
Arrival: By plane from several German airports to Thessaloniki. Then by rental car or public bus to Ouranoupoli. From there, a ferry runs twice daily in summer and a speedboat once to the port of Dafni in the monastic republic. Another ferry then takes visitors to the monasteries on the west and south coasts. Land travel is not possible.
Entry: An entry permit is required. This must be applied for in advance at the office of the Holy Community of Athos in Thessaloniki. Women are not allowed to enter.
Accommodation: All monasteries are required to accommodate pilgrims free of charge. Since the quotas vary greatly depending on the monastery, it is advisable to call ahead.