October 4, 2026, 5:35 am | Read time: 6 minutes

Khachapuri Workshop with the Georgian Grandma

Anyone traveling to Georgia should be aware that you’ll likely return with a few extra pounds. Just thinking about typical Georgian dishes such as “Khinkali,” small stuffed dumplings, or the cheese-filled flatbread called “Khachapuri,” makes my mouth water. I am a vegetarian and was quite impressed by the many vegetarian options available in Georgia. In my experience, it can be challenging in some cultures or countries to feel truly satisfied without the usual meaty main ingredient.

However, Keso explained to me that much of Georgian cooking is plant-based. This is partly due to the strict fasting periods of the Orthodox Church, where one must abstain from meat products for almost 200 days a year. Over the centuries, many recipes based on vegetables, beans, herbs, and walnuts have developed, which are now also prepared outside of fasting periods.

Cooking together is part of the culture in Georgia. And since I was a guest, I definitely had to try Khachapuri, so Keso’s grandma showed me how to make the delicious cheese-filled flatbread on the first day. The dough is made from traditional yeast dough and filled with Sulguni cheese. The cheese is usually made from cow’s milk and has a slightly salty taste, making it ideal for the dish. Since the family owns cows, I was able to try the Sulguni cheese firsthand and was impressed by its juiciness. The kneaded cheese balls are then worked into the dough and rolled into a flatbread. “Depending on the region, Georgians prepare it in an oily pan or in the oven,” Keso explained to me.

Akhaltsikhe Impresses with Rabati Castle

Georgia, with a total area of almost 70 square kilometers, may not be particularly large, but there is still plenty to see. During a visit to relatives of my Georgian friend, I was able to explore the south of Georgia. We stayed in Rust’avi, a village near Akhaltsikhe, the capital of the southern region of Samtskhe-Javakheti. Akhaltsikhe is particularly known for its fortress called “Rabati.” The castle is one of the city’s main attractions and stands for the tolerance of different religions. In the upper part of the fortress complex, a church, a mosque, and a synagogue stand directly next to each other. The castle was located right on the border of Georgian Christianity and the Muslim Ottoman Empire and remained a hub for the religions existing in Georgia through several conquests and wars.

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Vardzia Was the Hideout for Thousands of People

Vardzia left me speechless: The cave city, built in the 12th century, rises between the massive mountains and offers a breathtaking view of the Georgian landscape. For a few lari, we could visit the rock face and take a closer look at the small caves. A relative of Keso told me the legend of how the name Vardzia is said to have originated. The Georgian Queen Tamar was supposedly taken on a hunting trip by her uncle as a child. He told her to wait for him in the caves until he returned from his hunt. When her uncle came back, he couldn’t find her and called out, “Tamar, where are you?” to which the young princess replied, “Aq var, dzia!” (I’m here, uncle!). From these words, the name “Vardzia” is said to have originated.

What particularly impresses me is that up to 50,000 people could live in all these nearly 6,000 living spaces. The premises include caves that served as kitchens, toilets, but also a church and marriage rooms were built. The cave city was initially intended as protection against enemy attacks and later served as a monastery. It was built 500 meters above the Mtkvari River, which served as a water source for the inhabitants of the cave city. To this day, the water supply of Vardzia is one of the most impressive construction feats of the Middle Ages, which originated in the 12th century. The pipes from the river were not only intended to fill the water reservoir, but also air channels ensured that there was enough oxygen for the people in the caves.

Borjomi Park with Sacred Mineral Water

Borjomi is characterized by a landscape that you usually only see in mystical films. Expansive mountains, giant trees, and a romantic river that flows directly through the city. Borjomi is particularly known for its volcanic sodium bicarbonate mineral water, which you can drink directly from a rock. Many people filled their water bottles at the respective springs during our visit, and a local woman told me that Borjomi water is considered healing water and many stories exist about its miraculous effects.

The Borjomi Park was also a highlight. Although you have to pay an entrance fee, the view and the relaxed atmosphere make it worth a visit. Both hiking enthusiasts and leisurely walkers will find beautiful paths to stroll along. One of the forest paths leads to a small spring bath filled with Borjomi water, ready for bathing. With a swimsuit or bikini, you can immerse yourself in the “sacred” water and gaze up at the mountains.

My vacation with Keso’s family was truly a beautiful and unforgettable experience. Amid so much negative news in the world, I am grateful for such hospitable and helpful people and wish that more would take a page from their book. Additionally, the grandma of my Georgian friend gave me a few recipes for typical dishes, but I would recommend to all my readers here to try the dishes with local ingredients and also to see the wonderful landscape of Georgia with their own eyes.