March 2, 2023, 5:56 am | Read time: 8 minutes

Strolling down Westernstraße on a sunny day—akin to Wernigerode’s Fifth Avenue—you might easily feel like you’ve stumbled into one of the “Harry Potter” books. The centuries-old half-timbered houses have a truly enchanting charm. Cafés line up next to small shops, and the impressive town hall in the marketplace is, without hesitation, the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. With a bit of imagination, you might think you’re actually in Hogsmeade, the place where the wizard students arrive each year on the Hogwarts Express.

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Magical Castles and Snowy Owls

And towering over it all, visible from afar, is Wernigerode Castle with its numerous towers and turrets. It strikingly resembles Hogwarts. About 50 of the 200 impressive rooms can be visited today after a short but steep climb up the castle hill. Those who prefer not to walk can take the Wernigeröder Bimmelbahn, a small excursion train on wheels, up to the castle. From the castle, you have a spectacular view of Wernigerode and the surrounding landscape. An even better view is available after a short climb to the higher Agnesberg. From here, you can see the castle, the town, and the landscape.

In the immediate vicinity, you can also enjoy excellent hiking, such as along the Annaweg to the Christianental Wildlife Park, a kind of wilderness zoo. “Harry Potter” fans will likely notice the snowy owls here, reminiscent of Hedwig from the novels. There are also deer and wild boars, though I searched in vain for the wildcats and lynx. If you just want to take a break in beautiful nature, you can stop by the forest inn.

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The Hogwarts Express in the Harz

Hiking enthusiasts can also embark on a tour from Wernigerode to the Brocken. At 1,141 meters, the highest mountain in the Harz has traditionally been the main gathering place for witches in Germany. If you shy away from the footpath, which can take several hours or even half a day depending on your starting point and personal fitness, you can simply take the Brockenbahn up. The nostalgic train is pulled by a real steam locomotive and strongly resembles the Hogwarts Express used by Harry Potter and his friends. Often, while hiking, you can see its smoke plume from afar before you see or hear the train itself.

The Brocken itself is a rather pretentious beauty and rarely grants its visitors a clear view from its summit. But when it does, you can see up to 100 kilometers away. I took the train down into the valley after huffing my way up on my own. The ride was a very pleasant experience. A round trip costs 42 euros for adults, and a one-way ticket is 21 euros.

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The carriages have a nostalgic charm, and in good weather, you can even stand outside and enjoy the landscape rushing by. The most exciting ride is in the car behind the locomotive, where you’re enveloped in thick steam at every start. With its widely audible whistle, the locomotive also delights the hearts of big kids. The Harz narrow-gauge railway network includes other trains and even takes guests to the UNESCO World Heritage city of Quedlinburg.

Hiking Over Schierke and Stalactite Caves

A beautiful hiking route to the Brocken leads through the small town of Schierke. The path is partly steep and gravelly, but the approximately 6-kilometer ascent rewards you with great panoramas and a pleasant rest at the Eckernloch shelter. The train tracks cross your hiking path here, so with a bit of luck, you can snap a Facebook-envy photo. Schierke itself is also worth a visit. You can visit the house where pharmacist Willi Drube invented the now-legendary herbal schnapps “Schierker Feuerstein.” A visit to the Brockenbäcker, who has been delighting guests for five generations, is also worthwhile.

If you’re looking for an adventure like something out of a fantasy book away from the mountain, you can visit the stalactite caves in Rübeland. These are about 380 million years old and were carved into the stone by the waters of the Bode River over eternity. A guided tour takes visitors into the impressive Baumann’s Cave, where theater performances are regularly held and where you can even get married. It also goes into Herrmann’s Cave, where you might be lucky enough to spot the bizarre olm salamanders. Equally impressive are the numerous rock formations shaped by the water. You can also see the skeleton of a long-extinct, plant-eating bear here. It’s best to visit during the peak season, as Herrmann’s Cave is otherwise closed because bats hibernate here. At 9.50 euros for adults, the price is relatively steep, but it’s truly worth it.

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Action and Adrenaline

Action and adrenaline are not in short supply when visiting the Rappbode Dam. Here, you can walk across the steel suspension bridge, which sways quite threateningly high above the valley and Germany’s highest dam wall. The beautiful view more than compensates for the thrill. If that’s still not enough, you can also book ziplining or similarly crazy activities here. Be sure to reserve these in advance, as the attractions of the company “Harzdrenalin” are in high demand year-round: During my visit in February, there was a massive crowd.

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Great Views of the Bode Valley

Nearby, a wonderful hike starts from the inn “Zur Bode” and partly leads through the picturesque Bode Valley. Following the path toward Altenbrak, you soon reach the romantic town of the same name. It is traversed by the Bode River and lies in the wooded slopes like a village from a fairy tale. Steep slate rock faces line the riverbank path here. And you repeatedly encounter barred old tunnels of long-abandoned mines, some dating back to the Thirty Years’ War (1618-48).

By the way, you can safely drink the water from the Bode if you get thirsty along the way. If you then follow the path toward Roßtrappe/Thale, you reach a height trail after a short but very steep climb. This leads through dense forest and offers great panoramic views, finally arriving at Roßtrappe, a viewpoint of absolute excellence.

High above the town of Thale, this majestic rock rises and offers a view of the rugged, jagged landscape of the Bode Valley. You won’t soon forget this sight at sunset. If you don’t want to walk quite as far, you can also reach Roßtrappe directly from Thale, either on foot or by cable car. Directly opposite Roßtrappe is the Hexentanzplatz, another famous spot, because on Walpurgis Night, nowhere in the Harz is as lively as here, when more than 10,000 witch and wizard fans gather for a wild party on the mountain.

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Much to Discover for Little Money

Another reason for a vacation in the Harz: The public transport network is sensationally well-developed with numerous buses, so you can reach even the smallest, most remote village, especially from a city like Wernigerode. Additionally, every guest who stays overnight in a participating city in the Harz receives a voucher booklet from their host, allowing them to use the buses for free for the entire duration of their stay. If you want more and have a few days to spare, you can also purchase the “Harz Card,” which offers discounted or even free admission to over 120 different attractions. These include churches and monasteries, castles and palaces, as well as spas and even train rides.

And even though I’ve mentioned it elsewhere, I want to highlight the Harzer Wandernadel again. It’s a great way to collect stamps at various locations during excursions into the wonderful nature of the Harz. You can then exchange these for awards like “Harzer Steiger” or “Wanderkönig.” Those who collect all 222 stamps distributed throughout the Harz can even call themselves “Harzer Wanderkaiser”—there’s no time limit for collecting, as the goal is simply to inspire a love of movement.

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