January 4, 2026, 5:53 am | Read time: 9 minutes

One morning in late September, after nine days of perfect sunshine and a hike of more than 200 kilometers, the promised land finally appeared before my eyes like a mirage behind the next hill. Down in the valley lies the beautiful town of Altenau. It was already my mental destination when I embarked on my latest adventure tour, which led me through a wonderful landscape in the southern Harz. But now I have reached my goal, back here after having briefly visited Altenau at the end of May. This time, I allow myself three nights. And let me reveal this much in advance: Even in this fairy-tale town in the Oker Valley, time flies by.

First mentioned in documents in 1298, this former mining town has developed over more than seven hundred years into a hiking and relaxation paradise for those seeking peace, all amidst beautiful nature. Action and spectacle are (fortunately) hard to find, and life flows as gently as the seven rivers and streams that run through Altenau. The small town, actually a district of the neighboring Clausthal-Zellerfeld, doesn’t need loud, large, and expensive attractions to charm visitors. What one finds here with open eyes and an open heart is nonetheless astonishing: a healthy, almost flourishing spot that is hard to find elsewhere in the Harz, which spans three federal states.

Butchers and Healing Waters

It’s the small discoveries that create this feeling. While I have to travel far in my hometown of Berlin to find a good butcher, Altenau has two on the same street. Baumann, family-owned since 1820, and Sievert. Both sell homemade delicacies in abundance. Gourmet visitors should not miss the wild game specialties. During a visit, you might also enjoy a coffee and get the latest village gossip for free. My bank card was certainly glowing, and my backpack ended up several kilos heavier.

Especially after long hikes, tired feet in Altenau likely have only one destination: the Kristall-Therme “Heißer Brocken.” Here, you can relax wonderfully all day in several swimming pools and saunas. Particularly great is the “Hexenzuber,” where you can bathe in 36-degree warm, healing brine thermal water. This promotes blood circulation in the joints and internal organs, and its healing effect is actually proven and also state-certified.

Also interesting: The unknown Oker Valley in the Harz

St. Nicholas as Host

The sauna infusions can also be sensational, sometimes turning into a true show for guests. During my visit, a sauna master twirled his towel so skillfully it seemed as if he were dancing with it. The performance, for lack of a better word, reminded me a bit of a pizza maker elegantly working dough. The steam sauna, located in a replica mine tunnel, is quite original. Thus, a whole day passes, and I head to my accommodation, the Hotel “Engel” in the village center of Altenau, feeling relaxed to my toes.

Run by a friendly Dutch couple, the rooms here are large and clean, and despite good bookings, the house is very quiet. The innkeeper looks a bit like St. Nicholas and wears an apron at the breakfast buffet that reads: “Papa’s cooking is the best.” You can take that at face value; the offerings are plentiful and delicious.

A Genuine World Record Holder

Today, I have another destination: a bona fide record holder. According to a billboard, Altenau is home to the largest botanical garden for herbs in the world. On an area of about 36,000 square meters, or four soccer fields, you can find hundreds of different herbs from around the world. The idea for this special park came to its founder during various world travels, as employees revealed to me. Upon entering, visitors are greeted by a well-maintained facility with an artificial waterfall, where, according to a sign, 20 species of butterflies also feel at home. Peace is everywhere, for despite the entrance fee of only five euros per adult, the facility is virtually deserted.

In an Asian-style pavilion, a small exhibition explains the history of spices derived from the many herbs found in the park. Truly astonishing, however, is the souvenir shop, where you can find 640 different herb blends. Three park employees create these by hand, using spices imported from around the world. I counted 91 different curry varieties alone, and of course, I shopped extensively here as well. I couldn’t resist the chili con carne spice and the fried potato seasoning, but everyone is sure to find something to their taste.

Also interesting: Why Treseburg in the Harz is my personal power spot

Place of Traditions

I would have liked to take a tour of the Altenau Brewery, which has existed since 1617 and is the last of its kind in the entire Upper Harz. I can recommend the non-alcoholic beer from multiple experiences, but unfortunately, there were no tours during my stay. Instead, I delve further into history and attend the guest shooting of the 500-year-old Altenau Shooting Club. Founded in 1525, it is even older than the town itself. On the modern range, I am immediately on a first-name basis and warmly greeted. Young and older club members are already gathered in the clubroom, with black-and-white photos and trophies testifying to past times and triumphs.

I am then led to the shooting range and handed my air rifle. Weighing four and a half kilos, it feels quite heavy for me as a novice, and it becomes increasingly so with my total of 25 shots. I am allowed five practice shots before the scoring begins. All my hits are displayed on a tablet. In the clubroom, everyone else can also follow my progress on a TV. I find it very difficult to focus on the target through the small aperture, yet my shots all land somehow. With one particularly successful shot, my shooting instructor, who advises me throughout, laughs. The tablet shows a hit in the innermost ring and the color red. “Red means dead,” says my mentor, and somehow I feel proud.

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The First German Influencer

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A few members then enlighten me about the club’s history. “The word ‘Schütze’ comes from ‘Schutz’ (protection),” says one. And that has been the task of the men of Altenau since 1525. Among other things, they protected the emperors in nearby Goslar and other nobles, but of course, also the land and its treasures. Today, they see themselves as both a sports club and guardians of a tradition and the intangible UNESCO World Heritage that officially recognizes the Harz shooting clubs. If you want to try it yourself during a visit to Altenau: The guest shooting takes place every Wednesday from 6 p.m. in the Kurpark administration building, which also houses the town’s tourist information.

Altenau may still be a popular tourist destination today because the first German influencer once stayed here. Poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe is known to have spent the night of December 9-10, 1777, in the old town hall (now the Goethe House) before undertaking something absolutely adventurous for the time: climbing the legendary Brocken mountain in winter. A feat that no one had accomplished before. He first rode from Altenau to nearby Torfhaus and then, with his guide, forester Degen, successfully conquered the Brocken. He later wrote to his friend Charlotte von Stein: “Now I step out the door, the Brocken lies in the high, glorious moonlight before me, I was up there today.”

Also interesting: How beautiful the Bodetal in the Harz is

“Take Me Down to the Paradise City”

Another reason why Altenau is worth staying for several days is the excellent culinary offerings. These range from hearty pea soup at the “Zur Rast” snack bar to upscale cuisine at “Klippen-Grill,” offered at very fair prices. Through the open kitchen, you can watch the delicacies being prepared. The wild game dishes are particularly recommended, and perhaps a delicious baked apple afterward. You dine in style under wood-paneled ceilings at the “Landhotel Alte Aue.” From personal experience, I can recommend the cheese spaetzle.

My last stop in Altenau, out of sheer curiosity, was the pub “Altes Backhaus.” Drinking is always a social study, and although I have abstained from alcohol for years, I am still fascinated by the characters drawn to a bar. One such character sat next to me and, unprompted, shared that he would soon be heading to Thailand for half a year. Last year’s Halloween decorations still hang from the ceiling, and the dense cigarette smoke makes it hard to see anything. A radio plays softly in the background, and eventually, Axl Rose’s timeless “Take Me Down to the Paradise City” plays. “Take me to the paradise city,” I think with a smile. Because I’m already here, for one more night, in Altenau.