August 15, 2026, 8:18 am | Read time: 6 minutes

Report: Alexandra Cavelius

When we arrived at the airport, the humid climate immediately made us sweat. We were all the more excited about our ride, as at least a warm breeze would blow around us. Around us, the sound of engines and honking. Mopeds everywhere, packed tightly together. Fortunately, my friend is very experienced and stoic when it comes to riding mopeds in Asia.

Like in an Ant Colony

We were immediately in the midst of organized chaos. Ten, twenty mopeds close together, sometimes with body contact with the neighbor. Hardly anyone looked around when merging. From the side street to the main road, no glance left or right–you just merged in. No shoulder check. No hesitation. From the outside, it looks like pure chaos, but it’s more like an ant colony. Wild hustle, yet everyone gets to where they want to go.

At traffic lights, numbers count down the seconds, then it’s “hit the gas,” and everyone takes off simultaneously. The drivers are always looking ahead, keeping several vehicles in view. The horn is pressed briefly once or twice to signal something or longer “beeps” for warnings in unclear curves or during overtaking.

Sometimes a whole family rattled past us on a two-wheeler. Parents, three children, and even the dog in between. Cages with chickens. Stacked carpets. Or behind us, a complete tabletop tied across the handlebars–somewhere underneath, there had to be a driver, but you couldn’t see him. And all of this in a slalom.

Help! Crossing the Street on Foot

“Always keep moving, never hesitate,” is the motto. You move like in a swarm, following the gap that opens up in front of you, not the lane markings. Full trust in the collective system. Even as a pedestrian, hesitation is the worst thing you can do. On my first tour through Asia, I barely made it across a busy intersection because I was looking for an empty spot, which doesn’t exist in such a crowd. Eventually, I learned from the locals how to make it to the other side alive. Just start walking, with a clear course, and the traffic usually avoids you. But if you stop out of fear or suddenly run, you might cause the very accident you want to avoid at all costs.

Thin Helmets, No Protective Gear

For our tour through Vietnam, we rented a slightly larger moped, something between a scooter and a light motorcycle, with an extra mount for our backpack. It cost us about 20 euros per day, while smaller scooters are available for eight to ten euros. A helmet on the head, otherwise unprotected–just like most Vietnamese, who ride in flip-flops and shorts. Some of the rental helmets were so thin they seemed more like accessories than protective gear. Phew, sometimes it’s hard for me as a European to see that children often ride without helmets in this crazy traffic, and even babies are simply held in arms.

Shortly before our start, we met a Polish couple preparing for the same route as us. Despite the heat, they were in full protective gear. I asked if it wasn’t unbearable. But they were very clear: “No matter how hot, better safe!” They were probably right, as you often see tourists with casts or bandages on their arms and legs because they had a traffic accident. Mostly, in my impression, it affects tourists rather than locals, who have learned to sit on a moped in this hustle and bustle from childhood. But no one is truly safe.

The Accident in the Mekong Delta

As we drove out of the city through a small village, a young Vietnamese man lay in a curve on the road with a pained expression. Collision with a small truck. Thigh fracture, the bone protruding, blood gushing out. I almost felt sick. People were already around him, calling for an ambulance. His sandals were scattered around him. We couldn’t do anything for him except hope he was quickly taken care of.

After that, we automatically drove much slower. There are speed limits of up to 70 km/h, but that seems more like a suggestion. The traffic in the countryside was actually more relaxed than in the city, even if the road surfaces here were sometimes challenging. Gravel here, mud or potholes there. The trucks were considerate of us, not just pushing us aside. But you better not insist on any rights, because it’s clear that on a moped, you’re always the weaker one.

More on the topic

Up-and-Coming Metropolis in Asia 6 Reasons Why Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam Is Worth a Visit

Vacation in Vietnam The 6 Best Attractions and Activities in Hanoi

Ferries, Soccer, and Cheering on Little Chairs

I found the numerous ferries in the Mekong Delta amusing. Several times a day, small river arms interrupted our journey, which can only be crossed this way. At such points, we lined up with dozens of other mopeds, waited until the whole crowd fit on the boat, paid a small fee, stood close together, and a few minutes later, everyone took off again on the other side.

One evening stands out in my memory. Vietnam had won a soccer match, and the whole city celebrated in the streets–on mopeds, of course, in a huge, increasingly wild parade. We sat in a café on small plastic chairs, watching the spectacle with concern. We kept fearing, “It’s going to crash any moment!” because the chaos seemed to grow. But no way, the order in the chaos worked wonderfully. Nothing happened.

What Everyone Should Keep in Mind on a Moped

If you’re embarking on a moped tour in Asia for the first time, I would never recommend learning to ride a moped in Ho Chi Minh City. Better to start in a smaller city or in the countryside, where it’s less busy. Also, you should check the moped for comfort and try sitting on it, as most Vietnamese are simply smaller than us Europeans. It’s also important to insist on a properly fitting, stable helmet and, if possible, wear protective clothing–as uncomfortable as that may be in the heat. In the countryside, wearing goggles against insects is also advisable. Otherwise, the mental attitude on the moped should be one of deep calm. Balance and a certain agility can’t hurt either.

Being in the middle of this mass of hundreds of mopeds in Vietnam–it’s an adventure. And I would do it again anytime!