November 11, 2026, 12:42 pm | Read time: 5 minutes
It seems like everyone has been to Lisbon–except for our TRAVELBOOK author Lena Braun. Friends, acquaintances, colleagues: they all raved about it. And at TRAVELBOOK, the Portuguese capital regularly ranks at the top. No wonder she arrived with a rather idealized image. Then came her first visit, and it was different than expected.
First off: Lisbon is truly beautiful. Still, I was a bit disappointed at times. It’s not the city itself, but some aspects that no one had mentioned before caught me off guard. Here’s my honest interim report.
Lisbon in Traffic: When Everything Depends on Cars
Yes, the Tram is Cute, but …
The tram is a postcard motif, that’s true. But you rarely get to sit in it: At least on the tourist routes, it was almost always full. I hardly ever got a seat, and standing felt a bit dangerous during the jerky ride. Plus, cars and trams share the same streets, and the coordination doesn’t really work. Intersections are chaotic, and some cars park in a way that blocks the tram. Then it’s a matter of honking and waiting for the owner. No wonder you can’t rely on the schedules. The tram comes when it comes.
Yes, Uber is Cheap, but …
If you want to escape the crowded tram, you switch to Uber, and it is indeed cheap. But you’re constantly stuck in traffic. Also, many drivers have a very unique driving style: accelerating rapidly only to brake immediately. Sure, starting on a hill and in traffic is tricky. But it can make you feel queasy.
Yes, the Alleys are Beautiful, but …
The narrow alleys are a dream until you want to walk through them. They’re so tight that walking quickly becomes stressful because cars constantly get in your way. I especially noticed this in Santos and Santa Catarina. The alleys are just wide enough for a car to pass, and pedestrians have to squeeze against the wall.
For the same reason, you can hardly sit outside at many restaurants in these charming areas. The food everywhere was really good. I just would have liked to enjoy it more often outdoors, in a car-free alley.
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Yes, Walking is Possible, but …
Lisbon is hilly, really hilly. I don’t know if I just underestimated it, but it was quite exhausting for me. Especially the walk from Rossio up to Bairro Alto was a real workout. You have no chance in high heels, and in the dark, there are plenty of tripping hazards on the uneven pavement. No wonder you hardly see parents with strollers. At least you stay fit this way, and maybe you get used to it eventually.
Yes, the Houses are Pretty, but …
The old buildings have absolute charm and look beautiful from the outside, but living in them is another story. They’re often poorly insulated. In summer, it gets too hot, in winter, too cold. Sure, in expensive hotels, you probably don’t notice this much. In the 8-person shared apartment where I stayed, I heard every slamming door, every step on the parquet, and every conversation of the room neighbors. Those who booked an Airbnb in an authentic house in the middle of downtown might know this.
By the way: Lisbon is the second most beautiful city in Europe
Yes, the Viewpoints are Gorgeous, but …
The Miradouros are beautiful, and so are the sunsets. But you’re never alone there. In the evenings, everyone flocks to the highest spots in the city like pilgrims. If you want to enjoy the sunset with a glass of wine from the kiosk (yes, that’s exactly how I imagined my evenings), you should reserve a spot two hours in advance. It’s anything but quiet and relaxed.
Yes, the Locals are Probably Nice, but …
I would have loved to meet them! At the next table in the restaurant, at every tourist spot, next to me on the tram: Germans everywhere. I’m one of them myself, so I’m part of the phenomenon and can’t exclude myself. These days, you read more about demonstrations against the housing shortage because rents are rising sharply, and especially young locals are suffering, as Tagesschau reports. It made me think: How much of the real everyday life of the city do you actually experience as a tourist?
By the way: Lisbon is also the second friendliest city in Europe
Yes, the Nightlife is Cool, but …
In the evenings, the city is lively and loud, and that’s part of its charm. But after long nights, some people are noticeably drunk. If you’re part of it, it’s fun. If you have to hear it from your apartment, I think it can be quite annoying. In some areas, the smell of sweat and the remnants of the night still linger in the air the next morning. Maybe that’s part of it, but it didn’t quite feel like a vacation to me. In Berlin, it’s different and somehow feels normal there.
Still Beautiful! Lisbon Deserves a Second Chance
Lisbon is beautiful, but my visit was also overwhelming: loud, crowded, stuffy. I didn’t have something to complain about everything, of course. I was simply given a slightly different picture beforehand. The stories I had heard before were purely positive, and unfortunately, that’s not how I experienced it.
But I’m happy to be convinced again. I’m flying back at the end of November, this time off-season. I’m a bit nervous, to be honest. But also curious: Will Lisbon win me over after all? I’ll report back.